Monday, November 12, 2012

Kingman to Death Valley, through Las Vegas

The next morning, I left Kingman driving north toward Las Vegas, surprised by the houses spread across the desert.  Growth across the country has been so uneven the last thirty years, with many town shrinking slowly toward oblivion, many others exploding across the landscape.

but after fifteen or twenty miles it thinned to trailer houses and shacks scattered across the desert.








 always mountains in every direction






 a glimpse of the Colorado River in the canyon


 The new highway passes over the Colorado River gorge on a high bridge, so now you have to detour down the old road to see Hoover Dam.





Plenty of  outlets for colorful stuff in Henderson


 then over the hill and down into Las Vegas (literally "the meadow").  Maybe once upon a time.





 Looking good in downtown
 Nice old motels, looks promising












 But the strip itself is midwestern glitz, good to drive through but it didn't call to me to stop.



If nothing else, Las Vegas reminds us that there is more money in this country than we know what to do with, if we can waste it on this stuff.
If



I wound through the city and out past Red Rocks, a beautiful canyon west of town, many folks hiking and biking.



 Small Joshua trees

 Then over a pass on Hwy 160 to Pahrump, and odd smear of casinos, fireworks stands, and RV parks. Who knows what holds the place together, if it is together at all.



Slow times in Pahrump, it seems.
  Just past Pahrump I turned west on a narrow road that ran over yet another range of mountains to  Death Valley Junction

 Then over more mountains and down into Death Valley.


Furnace Creek, always a surprise of water, grass and date palms in the middle of the lowest, hottest and driest place in the country.  In the winter, it also features a parking lot full of old folks in their big RVs, sitting around doing not much- waiting for happy hour it appears.





As on other visits, I was prepared to criticize this extravagance of green in the desert, but this moderated my opinion.

November 6, no wonder the old folks are here and not in, say, Portland.

I camped up above in Texas Spring campground, where I camped years ago, half a lifetime ago in fact.  Whew.  But the place, the valley is still one of the best in the land.









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